GRANDMA AND THE ANTARCTIC ADVENTURE

Story ID:	326
Written by:	Wanda Molsberry Bates
Story type:	Story
Location:	Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station ANTARCTIC
Year:	2005
Person:	David Bates

I have long felt that among the functions and privileges of grandparenting is bragging about the grandchildren. I have been quick on the draw in bringing out pictures of grandchildren to show to any captive audience. This has gone on through the years, and though the grandchildren are now adults, I still like to do some bragging. To my delight I now have a photogenic great-granddaughter, and I frequently report on her antics as a “terrible two.”

The four grandchildren all have interesting stories, but that of my oldest grandson, David Bates, is unique in that he recently returned from spending thirteen months at Antarctica where he was employed at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. With his tales and pictures of that experience he has provided me with a very unusual vicarious experience in being a “winterover Polie.” (I should add that a vicarious experience in that place is the only kind I would ever want!)

David flew to New Zealand in October of 2004 with plans to stay through the winter months as well as during the warmer period which was starting when he arrived. He spent a few days at Christchurch where he and others in a group headed for the Pole were outfitted with heavy winter clothing. From there they went on to McMurdo Station. This was a stopping point before flying on to the South Pole. This station is located on the farthest south solid ground that is accessible by ship. It is built on bare volcanic rock on the Hot Point peninsula of Ross Island. It has landing strips and helicopter pads on sea ice and is a tourist attraction in summer time. Cargo is brought there in Air Force planes or Coast Guard vessels and taken on to the South Pole. From “Mac Town” David flew to the South Pole Station in an Air Force LC-130 plane, the first plane to go in at the start of the warmer season.

Planes are not supposed to fly into the station at temperatures below -50° Celsius as friction from the planes’ landing skis may melt the ice which can then freeze fast enough to cause the skis to stick. David reported that they landed at -55° C, and cargo and passengers were unloaded very fast.

David’s work was with radio and satellite communication and with repair of electronic equipment. When not at his regular job, he occasionally enjoyed helping in the kitchen on the cook’s day off, his specialties being pizza and gumbo.

Funded by the U. S. Government’s National Science Foundation, scientific research is conducted in a number of fields such as efforts to understand the Antarctic and its ecosystems and study of the upper atmosphere and space.

To my great delight it was possible for David to send and receive e-mail and phone calls during his entire stay. Times for communication depended on the position of a satellite. It was exciting to receive messages and to read stories and see pictures on David’s web site. “Polies” could receive mail during the months when planes flew in. Christmas packages arrived, though not necessarily on time. (David thinks Grandma’s cookies should be mentioned.)

Summertime housing is in a series of clamshell tents which are at some 2000 feet from the station. Winter housing is in tunnels under the dome, a geodesic metal structure built in the 70’s but now being replaced by a new station, almost completed. During the months when the sun was visible, it was necessary at all times, when in the open, to wear dark IV protective glasses (without metal rims which would freeze to the skin).

The winter season began when the last plane flew out on February 15, 2005. The “winterovers” realized that they were there to stay during the dark days with no chance for leaving until in October. On March 24, 2005, the sun went down to stay for six months. As the sun left, there was twilight for awhile and then darkness with the only light coming from stars, the moon, and auroras. During the dark period, lines with flags were strung from site to site for use as guides when it was necessary to go from point to point with no light at all. Sometimes it was necessary to go to the satellite dish which was “quite a hike.” (3/4 mile, 15 to 20 minutes.)

It wasn’t all work as there was kite flying (at -50° F or lower temperatures) igloo building, sledding down huge piles of ice crystals, putting on shows, or joining the 300 Club. To become a member of the club, Polies had to jump into a sauna where the room temperature was 200° F and run around the pole au naturel in a -l00° F temperature. Surprisingly, they did live to tell the story.

“Winterover” scientists gave interesting lectures. David especially enjoyed an astronomy class as he became familiar with the southern sky. There is an extensive library of books and videos and there are musical instruments which can be used.

The diet was good. A greenhouse at the station provided fresh fruits and vegetables. David especially liked the cherry tomatoes. There was always a plentiful supply of fresh lettuce.

“Winterovers” were allowed some R&R at McMurdo Station before all transportation ended for the cold season. Winter ended when planes came again in October of 2005 and the summer people started arriving while David and others left for home. It’s interesting to know that all 24 time zones converge at the Pole. Time used at the Pole is that which is used in New Zealand since supplies come from there.

Would David ever return? YES! Will I ever visit the South Pole? NO! But this vicarious Antarctic Adventure has been fascinating. There is much interesting material on David’s website: www.polardaveb.com.